Four in Hand

Finally a first official post! I’ve been desperately tying to get my website up and running but have since discovered I’m somewhat technologically inept and thus it has kept me busy for far too long. And is it finished? Not even close. But in the interest of at least seeming up to date on other things, I simply must catch up on the blogging thing.

What better way to begin than a rather delectable lunch I had yesterday at Sydney restaurant Four in Hand. A note, this is by far my favourite Sydney eatery and definitely top five in Australia, so you’re not going to get a review from me, just a chance to bask in the glory that is Colin Fassnidge, a fastidious Marco Pierre White-like Irishman who serves up wildly good food from a small and perfectly formed menu. In short, I love him, his food, and the restaurant itself. Mmmm, unbiased opinion.

Sadly it was to be a very short lunch as there was a plane to catch back to Melbourne, and it was a difficult lunch to get through as I was firmly in possession of a MasterChef series launch instigated hangover from the night before. Apparently the new crop of contestants is ten million times better than we were and the new series is brilliant and challenging and just better on all fronts blah blah. But it’s not like I’m bitter or anything.

Back to lunch. Apart from the aforementioned time limits and head pounding, lunch was, in short, fucking awesome. I started with the special of Pig’s Ear schnitzel, pork belly salad, apple puree and pork crackling. Crunchy and unctuous and sharp and fatty and wonderful.

Pig's Ear as it should be.

Manfriend went with the 12 Hour Braised Beef Short Rib with Roast Marrow, Carrot and Sherry Puree. The rib is caramelised on a smoking hot grill before serving and it’s pretty much to-die-for good.


The kitchen treated us to their Roast Suckling Pig, Black Pudding, Pommes Fondant etc etc etc. I die.

Yes, that is the snout. Yes, it was incredible.

For mains I went with the Lamb rack, fried anchovies, pearl barley and lamb ragu with salsa verde and saffron ruille. I’d like to make love to that pot of pearl barley, it was so intensely and deliciously lamby.

My future husband in the right hand corner there.

Across the table there was the Dhufish, brandade croquettes, pumpkin puree, crispy squid. Hot damn, these boys can cook.

Wow. Just wow.

Sadly no dessert or cheese or glazing the afternoon away over too much PX and Tanqueray and tonic, but a wonderful lunch indeed. Just so you know, the service is also great, the room is understated, and there’s a pub next  door for kicking on if you feel so inclined (or taking a break between lunch and dinner, which I have actually done at least once).

Please don’t rush there, I don’t want people taking over my favourite. But I’ll allow you to visit when I’m not in Sydney.

Four in Hand

105 Sutherland Street (cnr Elizabeth Street)


02 9326 2254


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